How to use this calculator
- Enter a consistent average grade index for the session.
- Count meaningful attempts using the same convention each time.
- Enter active climbing time, excluding long breaks.
- Rate the whole session from 0 to 10 and calculate.
Estimate climbing training load from the difficulty of your session, total attempts, active climbing time, and session RPE. The result combines external work and perceived demand in a single number that can be tracked week to week. Because route grades, wall angles, and attempt definitions vary, the score is most useful inside one climber’s consistent log rather than as a comparison between athletes.
The total blends grade-adjusted attempt volume with an internal time-and-effort measure. Rising load can reflect more attempts, harder climbing, longer work, or higher perceived strain.
There is no universal climbing-load unit. Use this score as a consistent personal tracking tool and pair it with pain, sleep, and performance notes.
At average grade index 8, with 18 attempts, 45 active minutes, and RPE 7, external load is 162 and internal load is 315, for 477 load units.
They can, provided you include them consistently and assign an average grade that reflects the full session.
It is time actually spent climbing or making attempts, excluding most rest and belay time.
Not reliably. Grade indexes, RPE, and attempt definitions are personal and context dependent.
Attempts describe external volume while RPE captures how demanding the session felt.
No. It means more measured load, which may or may not suit the current training goal.
| Measure | Definition | Unit |
|---|---|---|
| External load | (grade index + 1) × attempts | load units |
| Internal load | active minutes × RPE | load units |
| Total load | external + internal load | load units |
| Per-attempt load | total ÷ attempts when attempts exceed zero | load units |